After much fiddling and navigating a gigantic learning curve or two, I have finally finished the pattern, instructions, and videos for Tinker’s FrogFaces Mask. (Scroll to bottom for pattern download.) The video tutorial is now available! The links to this 3-part tutorial are:
our masks or give them away. They are in no way guaranteed to meet any standard; however, there is plenty of evidence that if you wear something absorbent over your face (mouth and nose) and it fits relatively well, the wearer can help to reduce the chances of spreading virus particles. How much? We don’t know. But any is still better than none. Please also be sure that the wearer washes the mask before and after wearing.
I plan to update this post soon with the patterns for Large and Small sizes, as well as some additional info on using elastic, making stretchy straps, and more.
How to Sew the FrogFaces Mask
1. Cut from main fabric (outer): 1 bottom piece (#1) - cut on fold; 2 top pieces (#2) – mirror images. On the curved edge, mark the center of #1.
2. Cut another set as in step 1, this time from the lining (inner) fabric, as well as one #3 piece (either fabric is okay for this piece). Alternatively, you can just cut another set of the main fabric but sew it as if the “wrong” side is the “right” side. It’s important that the wearer can tell which side of the mask they are wearing next to their face.
3. Finish the short edges of #3 with either serging/overlock, zigzag, or pinking shears. Press in half longwise.
4. Assemble mask tops:
a. With right sides together (RST), join pieces of #2 of outer fabric using a ¼” seam allowance.
b. Edgestitch (sew a topstitch about 1/16” to 1/8” inch from the seam). Repeat for inner pieces #2.
5. Assemble outer and inner masks:
a. With RST, match the seam of outer top (not the edgestitch) to the center mark on the curved edge of outer piece #1. Stitch together using a ¼” seam allowance.
b. Edgestitch on the lower side of the seam. Repeat for inner pieces.
6. Fold #3 in half to find and mark the center lengthwise, then pin to the right side of inner mask, matching the center mark to the seam (not the edgestitch). Stitch in place with a ¼” seam allowance.
7. Pin ends of straps ¾” from top of each corner of the right side of inner mask.
8. Long ends of straps should be placed together at the center of the “bowl” of fabric as shown.
9. Now lay outer mask RST over inner mask, repinning to hold all layers and straps.
10. Stitch as shown, back-tacking at beginning and end of stitching. Be careful to avoid catching the straps and be sure to follow the curve at the top edge. Trim corners close to stitching.
11. Turn mask right side out. Use a point turner or similar item to help with pushing out the corners, then press.
12. Make a downward pleat on each side as shown in figure 5, resulting in the desired final side length: Medium side = 2 ¼” (I will update with measurements for Small and Large once testing is complete.) Secure pleats with pins or clips.
13. To create 2 rows of stitching over the pleats, stitch around mask in 2 sections as shown (pink and green).
14. Finally, stitch pocket into nose bridge piece as shown (blue). Pocket depth should be adjusted to accommodate the wire being used add ¼” to size of wire, including extra if needed to bend ends in.
Let me know if you have any questions, suggestions, or concerns.